Cupcake de Crochê
I’ve been making cupcake containers for years and never really got around to elaborating on the process. With Valentine’s Day only a few weeks away, I thought this would be a good time to share how I make them. It’s pretty straight-forward and essentially a permanent cozy over a used plastic container (yogurt, sour cream, etc). These steps will help guide you for whatever size you have on hand. I suggest using containers that are shorter, as they make the cutest cupcakes. The container used in the photos is 8 ounces.
Warning: This tutorial uses hot glue, so be careful! Keep an eye on your glue gun and take care of your fingers!
Materials
-Plastic Food Container With Lid (yogurt, sour cream, etc.)
-Worsted Weight Yarn in 2 colors
-5mm/ H Crochet Hook
-Worsted Weight Yarn in 2 colors
-Hot Glue Gun And Glue Sticks
-Yarn Needle
-Optional: -Small amount of Red Yarn
First, we crochet the bottom of the cupcake. Start by making a chain that is as tall as the container + 1. I chained 8. Leave at least 12″ of tail yarn.
For the first row, single crochet in the second ch from your hook and in each chain after.
Row 2: SC in the front loop only across all stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: SC in the back loop only across all stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: SC in the front loop only across all stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: SC in the back loop only across all stitches. Ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 & 3 until you have a rectangle long enough to stretch around your cozy. Do not fasten off. Seam the edges shut using your beginning yarn.
Single crochet around the edge your working yarn is at. Make one stitch into the side of each row. Slip-stitch into first stitch, then slip-stitch into each stitch, to tighten up the round.
Attach it to your container using hot glue along the top edge first, then you can add a line of hot glue along the bottom edge, stretching if you need to.
Now, we’re going to crochet the cupcake top. We crochet it amigurumi style. If you are going to add scallops later, work in the BACK LOOPS ONLY:
Single crochet 6 stitches into a magic loop. Cinch it shut. Do not join. Work the rest of the rounds in a spiral.
Round 2: 2 SC into each st. (12)
Round 3: *1 SC into next st, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (18)
Round 4: *1 SC into next two sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (24)
Round 5: *1 SC into next three sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (30)
Round 6: *1 SC into next four sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (36)
Round 3: *1 SC into next st, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (18)
Round 4: *1 SC into next two sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (24)
Round 5: *1 SC into next three sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (30)
Round 6: *1 SC into next four sts, 2 SC into next; Rep from * around. (36)
Continue increasing evenly until you have a circle that is just about as big as your lid. Make 2 or 3 rounds of 1 SC into each st (no increasing), depending on how tall you want the “frosting,” then fasten off. You should now have a dome shape to cover your top. I like to finish simple tops with a round of crab stitch.
FOR SCALLOPS:
Re-attach the yarn at the top/center of your work into the front loop of your first st. Chain 1, *skip two loops and make 5 DC into the next, skip 2 loops, and slst into the next; Rep from *, spiraling down the top into the front loops. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Turn your cupcake top over and position the lid as above. If you did not add scallops to your top, position the lid at the edge of your top.
Cover about 2″ of the edge of your top with hot glue and then immediately attach the crocheted piece to it. Hold for at least 30 seconds for optimal adhesion.
To get the best positioning, glue the opposite point, then glue all of one side.
Add about a handful of poly-fil stuffing into your top. If you over-fill it, you will warp the container top, so be careful. You also don’t want to under-stuff it because the crochet part might collapse.
Once you are satisfied with your stuffing, carefully glue the rest of the lid on. After I finish gluing it all, I like to add extra glue along the edge of the crochet/plastic just to make sure it’s stuck on completely.
OPTIONAL: Cherry!
Using red yarn, crochet 4 SC into a loop, cinch it shut. Make sure this beginning tail gets crocheted inside the cherry.
Using red yarn, crochet 4 SC into a loop, cinch it shut. Make sure this beginning tail gets crocheted inside the cherry.
Round 2: 2 SC in each st. (8)
Round 3: 1 SC in each st. (8)
Round 4: 1 SC in each st. (8)
Round 5: 2SCtog, around. (4)
Round 3: 1 SC in each st. (8)
Round 4: 1 SC in each st. (8)
Round 5: 2SCtog, around. (4)
Fasten off. Weave in this end, then have it come out the top of the cherry. Cut it, leaving about 1″ sticking out the top. Trim as needed to keep it sticking up.
Ta-da! You have a little cupcake container made from your recycled food containers. You can make them for loved ones on their birthdays! They make nifty little trinket boxes. Just sayin’.
Almofada de Morango
These pillows are easy and quick to make, a perfect end of summer project! The best thing about them is seeing other people's reactions to them. Everyone who sees them wants to touch them, squeeze them, and carry them around. There is something about their large size (about 15-inches high) that just makes people smile! --MollyMaterials
To make a set of four (roughly) 15-inch high pillows:
- 1 1/2-yards of Kiyohara Organic Woven Dots in Pink or any pink dot
- 1 1/2-yards of Kiyohara Organic Woven Dots in Red or any red dot
- 1/2-yard of Organic Cotton Duck in Avocado or any green solid
- Two bags of Stuffing
- A spool of light green thread to match the green fabric, I used color #8975
- A spool of neutral thread for sewing the berries
- A ball of cotton embroidery floss
- A Creative Grids 6.5-inch by 24.5-inch ruler or a protractor
- A Strawberry Pillow Stem Template printed and cut out, available for free here.
Cutting
Fold and press the first of your dotted fabrics in half selvege to selvege. Mark a 24-inch length along the fold of the fabric. Using your long ruler mark a 60-degree line, pointing inward from each of these corners. This will form an equilateral triangle, where each edge is 24-inches long and each angle is 60-degrees.
Here is a more close-up shot of marking a 60-degree angle. The ruler has one line that's labeled 30-degrees and 60-degrees. The 60-degree side is the more open of the angles. You can place this 60-degree line along the fold as shown above and start marking the sides of your triangle from the outer corner of the ruler.
Repeat this step to cut out a second equilateral 24-inch triangle from your fabric on the fold. Turn one of these shapes inside out, so the reverse side of the fabric is showing. Repeat for the second color of dotted fabrics.
Each one of these triangular pieces will make one pillow.
Sewing the Berry
Sew one of the open sides of one of the triangles with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. The shape will now only have one open side.
Open up and fold the shape so that the seam you just sewed lines up with the fold, and the open side is at the top, and press it flat. Then mark a 4-inch long line perpendicular to the seam, at the bottom of this new long triangle shape.
Sew along the marked line and then trim off the bottom of the triangle.
Re-press the shape back towards its original equilateral triangle shape, with the side seam on one side, the fold on the other, and the open edge at the top. Press the bottom of this shape open and flat into a diamond shape with the 4-inch seam arrangled vertically. Make a perpendicular mark 1-inch from the top and bottom of the 4-inch seam.
Sew along these markings and trim off the corners as shown above.
Turn your shape right sides out. It should look something like this. Press out any creases in the bottom.
Stuffing
Stuff the berry shape tightly and very full.
Gather the two long opposide corners (the side seam and the fold) and stitch them together in the middle of the top with the embroidery floss.
Then gather the opposite sides and sew them to the middle gathering.
Keep gathering and sewing opposite sides until the stuffing is fully encased.
Fluff and mold your berry shape until you're happy with it.
Making the Top
Using the template cut out the pieces for the stem from the green solid.
Place the two stem top pieces on top of each other so that they match up exactly. You may have to flip one of the pieces over because the leave shapes are not symetrical. Sew the pieces together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance along the stem and straight top line only, not the leaves.
Trim the seam allowance to an 1/8-of an inch along the stem and cut notches into the right angles of the seam.
Turn the top right sides out. You may need to use a knititng needle or other long object to fully turn out the stem. Press the top flat.
Stuff the stem section only tighly with stuffing until it stands up.
Let some of the stuffing from the stem stick out into a little poof in the middle of the top. This will give the stem a little bit of a platform to stand up on once you've sewn it on.
Pin the bottom piece to this sewn stem piece, right sides together as shown above. The stuffed section of the top of the stem will be encased inside of this.Turn the pieces around until they match up exactly before you do this, as the leave shapes are not symetrical.
Sew the pieces together with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, leaving one side of one leaf un-sewn. Cut notches into all the curves of and sharp angles.
Turn this piece right sides out, taking special care to poke out the corners (again you may want to use a knitting needle or other sharp object.) Press the raw edges of the un-sewn leaf inside and pin it shut. Sew this side closed with a blind stitch. Press the top.
Finishing
Pin the stem and leaves onto the top of the strawberry shape, covering the top gathering stitches.
Sew the top on through it's underside to the berry as shown above.
Assinar:
Postagens (Atom)